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Oil leak covering Lower Radiator Hose at "T"

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My 2001 Mercury Sable with Vulcan Engine and 112,000 miles has developed an oil leak somewhere. It drips slowly. 1-2 drops overnight. The oil is dripping from the Lower Radiator hose right at the T fitting that goes up to the degas/overflow tank. (I know that this is not where it's actually leaking. This is just the lowest point.)

The oil is fairly dark and thick by the time it accumulates here. The Transmission fluid line quick fitting going in to the top of the rad. is a little wet and grimy by not nearly as much as down at the bottom. The "oil" is not red at all when absorbed by white paper towel. It's mostly greasy road grime, but there are a few "light brown" spots which look more like motor oil.

Anybody have any thoughts on what fluid and where this leak might be coming from? Experienced answers and educated guesses are appreciated.

Removing front struts on 93 taurus

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I have a 93 taurus 3.8L V6 automatic GL 4dr. Do you have to remove everything that the "haynes" and "Chilton's" manual tell you to remove when replacing the front struts on my car? They tell you to remove the brake caliper, rotor, tie rod, lower arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut, and halfshaft of the driveaxle. Is all of this necessary or is their a easier way? Can you just remove the stabilizer bar link, the strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt, and three top mount-to-strut tower nuts?

Tire Care

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I was wondering what is the best product to clean the rims on my taurus. I have a 2013 Limited with premium wheels (alloy, i think). I have heard that maguires all wheel cleaner is good.

New Member 08 Taurus X

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I just bought a used X Eddie Bauer, and I am just tring to find as much information about this car as far as any known issues or problems that I could hopefully avoid by catching them early before it becomes a big expensive problem. I am on a very tight budget and need this to be a reliable family car for as long as possible. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. I have recently noticed a ticking/ knocking sound behind the dash. I am assuming it is probably a blender door on the AC system? any thoughts?

Knightgirl

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Just joined....I have a 2001 Ford Taurus SES with a DOHC and it has 299,450 miles on it. Still runs good too.:tcca_small:

mustangscott

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Returning member (been gone for a few years). Now working as a professional ASE Tech.

Introduction

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Hi, I'M John from Tulsa, I have a 2005 Ford Taurus that the power windows stay energized all the time causing the battery to be dead when parked over night,
I have installed a new battery, new alternator, and ignition switch;
Anyone have any idea what I can do to fix this?
Sorry if this is in the wrong place for this post but I wasn't sure if I was in the right place. Thanks for any help you can give.

Need Help Locating a Part (

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I need to locate the following clip

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...connection.jpg

So far have not been able to find it on Auto Part Online stores. Called all my local stores they were of no help.

If the picture does not work.

I have a Ford Taurus 1999, 3.0 engine. Part is Called Accumulator Connection Retaining Clip.

Need 2 clips that attach to the accumulator fitting to lock it in and also a clip to lock the other part of the condenser line to the evaporator. Are these both the same part?

Might have to check the local car junkyard to get those parts cause I can't find them anywhere.

Thanks for the help.

If you guys could Link the store that has these. Online order only is perfectly acceptable. Thanks

PCV Maint

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Maint tip, one more thing to watch.

If your plenum looks like this, your PCV is not up to standard. By this time, the MAF is dirty.

Worst case is you have excess blowby but first things first. = PCV.

Seen much worse at the JY. This is a JY spare as I have 2 cars using the same part. This is the best one in the Pick A Part.

Just sharing.

-chart-

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center console swap.

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Cam someone help me out? I have a 99 wagon with that retarded flip up console that is completely useless. I am trying to swap one of the ones from the 4th gens into it. I went to the salvage yard to pull one and thought it would be easy only to find that I couldn't figure out how to get it unbolted. The inner section doesn't pull out to reveal the bolts so I'm stuck. Thanks for the help.

introduction

New Member

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Hi I'm Dody. Just joined. Recently bought me an 06 Ford Taurus se

more power

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Hello my name is Brian. I am looking for ways to boost horsepower in my 2011 sho. Anybody have any experience with chips/programmers. I looked online and couldn't find much. What else could I get more horsepower from without paying thousands and thousands? Any help would be appreciated. 2011 sho. Anybody have any experience with chips/programmers. I looked online and couldn't find much. What else could I get more horsepower from without paying thousands and thousands? Any help would be appreciated.

Why doesn't Everybody have this tool????

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In process of searching for how difficult it is to bleed the ABS system (basically have to go to the dealer to hook up to their scan tool) I discovered the following scan tool on Amazon:



Apparently it is a clone of the Ford scan tool that costs thousands of dollars and supposedly performs all of the same functions. Considering that it costs about 200 bucks (and has four pretty good reviews on Amazon) I don't know why everyone isn't buying one of these?? What's the catch?!?

I actually researched it online a little bit further, and apparently everyone and their mother in China is making these things, and a lot of them are questionable quality and sold by questionable sellers, so that would account for some reluctance on behalf of buyers, but considering that this is sold through Amazon, so you know you can rely on the Amazon return policy, and the seller has decent ratings in general on Amazon, and this particular scan tool was well reviewed there, is there any reason not to get this???

I was just surprised to not find any discussion of these tools on this forum please would love any insights....

Cooling fan diagnostics

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After digesting the many posts about fans, relays, resistors, etc. (thank you all) I did not come across a definitive answer about testing the fan unit itself.
In order to not re-open old threads, here goes.....

Just to be specific, we are dealing with a '99 DOHC Taurus with no low speed. (AC system recently repaired & charged)

From what I can tell from a good look under the hood is that the resistor unit as per the diagrams posted is only 2000 & up. I've seen other wiring diagrams in other threads that seem to show no resistor for the '98-'99 3 wire system. But I'll look again and will pull the headlight to be sure.

The L/S relay checks out, the H/S relay checks out, but when the H/S is activated, there is still power through the L/S relay. This is proper?

I also have 2 fans from my '98 Sable "parts source car" and when checking all 4, I get a good resistance reading on the Ground (left pin) and the right pin but nothing on the centre pin. When applying 12v. the same way I get H/S run but no L/S. Same H/S only running when plugged to the harness and AC on full tilt.

So all the relay & wiring issues aside, on the bench, should the fans across both terminal pairs not: a) exhibit resistance and b) run when direct powered?

Somebody asked (rhetorically?) about having 2 bad fans, it seems that I have 4 which is rather annoying. Should I decide to opt for replacements, any recommendations as to which product from Rock Auto is preferred?
TIA for the feedback.

Good morning

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Taurus (Sable actually) newbie here in SoCal. Impressed with the activity and depth of the forum, and looking forward to digging in and learning about and improving my car. Thanks in advance for the coaching.

Need some coaching (please) on tranmission slip

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Hi - first post here so thanks in advance. I have a new to me 2002 Sable LS wagon with the DOHC engine with 75,500 miles on her (believed to be accurate) that developed a strange transmission behavior after the deal did a full fluid exchange on the transmission. When I first start her in the morning from sitting all night on the first to second shift she slips, revs climb to 3k or so and then when I release the gas pedal she shifts and all is well. I am gentle on the throttle with her, not racing it or anything on that first drive.

Once that happens and I back off the throttle and she shifts into second gear it does not happen again for the rest of the day. She shifts smoothly, downshifts on demand cleanly, and there isn't any jerking in any of the gears. No whines or odd noises.

EDIT - the slipping on 1st to 2nd now happens if the car has sat for a couple of 3+ hours. Once warmed up and in use it does not happen.

Any ideas for me? Start saving up or just consider it a quirk and don't loose any sleep? I have an A/C issue to sort out but otherwise she is a great car, and the kids and I already love her.

Thanks in advance for the help.

Whats the difference in the two 98 model engines?

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Have a 98 Taurus lx. Engine seized so it's being replaced. For this model, when you look up the part for a 98 lx sedan, eighth vin digit u, there are two models. One from before July and one after. The parts place where we're getting the engine has both, but the latter model has fewer miles. So any idea what the difference is, and whether they are interchangeable?

Are the wagon and sedan rollbars (sway bar) interchangable?

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I have a 2002 (Sable actually) wagon and am looking to tighten up the handling via uprated sway bars. I've done some searching but haven't found a definitive answer (sorry if it is out there but I missed it) as to if the sedan and wagon sway bars interchange.

Do the fronts swap out?

How about rear bar on a wagon?

Is there a specific year / years that had thicker bars that I should be looking for at a salvage yard?

Thanks!

cylinder 1 misfire, water in cylinder 1

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Hi Everyone:
Thanks for help in advance.
I was doing some main seal repair and had to pull engine, shorten the spring on the new main seal to get it to work and....
I had began getting cylinder 1 misfires at startup, on the freeway and after it warmed up they would go away.
So I decided to pull the head while the engine was out and low and behold there was a bunch of water in cylinder 1. I looked at the surfaces between the head and engine and they didn't look that bad and I replaced head gasket last year. I probably should have checked torque on head bolts before I removed them but didn't.
Any ideas where the water could leak in from?
Thanks,
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