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Hub Assembly Project

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I replaced my front hub assembly (driver's side) on my 2002 Sable yesterday evening. I wanted to share with you my experience...The job was much more intensive than I had expected. I had intended on a bunch of pics to share with you but once I got sweating, greasy, and angry...the cell phone stayed on the work bench!:o

I decided to spend the extra money and purchase the Motorcraft assembly. I heard too much negative press on the AZ and Advance home brands to risk it. Timken and Moog were around $70...so, I went all in and purchased the hub below for $100 from Ford.



My goal was to remove the bearing without separating the ball joint. The limiting factor is your ability to get a 3/8 extension and 15mm socket on the top bolt. My replacement struts nixed this. The new strut seems to ride much lower in the cinch cup than OEM and I couldn't seem to find the room. My first solution was to remove the Cinch bolt and pound the spindle down off the strut. This did work but my bearing was hopelessly seized in the spindle housing. No amount of pounding, chiseling, cussing would allow it to come out.

So...I separated the ball joint, removed the tie rod and Sway bar link to allow the CV shaft to pull out from the entire assembly. From there I put some serious impact onto the hub assembly from behind until it popped out. Alas, Babylon!

Re-assembly was easy. I cleaned myself up and took this snapshot. Victory!




A few observations...
1. Do not underestimate the difficulty in removing the old hub from the spindle. This was a BIG deal for me...and has left me scarred for life! My Gen 4 has led a comfy life parked in the garage and has very little rust or corrosion. If it can happen to me...it can happen to you!

2. I am blown away at how quiet my ride is now. I knew my old bearing was bad because of the vibrating whirr and the buzzing on my hands while driving...but now I realize, before it got that bad, how noisy the bearing was up until this point. I had always assumed the noise was from my tires...guess not. My ride is so smooth and quiet I can now hear new noises that I didn't know I had! There was that much difference from old, to new.

3. My big worry is the condition of the ball joint boot. I tried to be careful when separating it not to tear the boot but...

4. If I ever have to do the other side I will do it by separating the ball joint. I don't see how it would be possible to remove the old hub without the needed space to pound it out. Sure an air chisel would help but...ugh...

Thanks for listening...

Joe

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New member "hello"

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I've inherited 2007 Ford Taurus SEL from my late mother. I've had lots of problems including 2 PCM replacements in which the last one included replacing coordinating transceiver. Now check transmission light is on and I'm about to replace pan gasket & filter.... Then I've got to address A/C blowing hot instead of cold air, because it's becoming unbearably hot in the South.

wiring diagrams

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Need help with ac problem. I changed the engine in my 2005 ford Taurus 3.0l flex fuel with a 2006 gas only engine removed the air compressor when I change the engine for about 2 weeks. When I hook air back up it does not work. I have 12volt at low pressure switch and 12 volts on red/yellow wire on switch behind compressor the fans do not come on. Is the pcm different and I need to change it because of the different fuel and year. Does any one have a wiring diagrams and test step for check voltage and ohms in the system. This is manual control ac

Transmission Fluid leak when leaving garage

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I have 2004 Taurus that leaves a line of drips as you pull out of the driveway. It doesn't ever seem to do it when you pull back into the driveway.

I put down a paper towel and the fluid is red, so I would assume that could only be transmission fluid or power steering fluid. When I pull the power steering dipstick it looks like it is fine, so I assume this is transmission fluid.

I can't seem to locate the transmission fluid dipstick. Could anyone let me know where it is? Are there any common leak points I should check out?

Thanks

Does anyone know the exact sizes of the badges?

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Hello all,

I'm looking into replacing my grill & trunk Ford badge with black ovals but the sizes seem to be odd (in comparison to other cars and years). I've taken numerous measurements with calipers & tape measures, but depending on where you measure from & to, if you follow the curve of the badge, etc., you get different measurements. I'd hate to spend the money on ordering something, only to find it doesn't fit.

The alternative is to remove the badges and send them off someplace so that the company I use has the exact one, but then I'd have to drive around badgeless for a X amount of time. If this is the best way then so be it but I'm hoping someone has the right dimensions. Thanks.

2002 DOHC Ford Taurus Error codes and other issues need help :(

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Hey guys, I just bought a 2002 Ford Taurus DOHC with a 24v Duratec engine, long story short there was supposed to be nothing wrong with the car, after a a few hours of checking things I have found some issues.
First issues I noticed the IAC is not working nothing happens when it is plugged in or unplugged I also have 2 error codes. Here is the report from the ODB Link Scan Tool. Any ideas on what these mean and what I should do fir them? I assume replacing the IAC will solve one of the codes at least? Also a picture for reference is there supposed to be oil going into the IAC?



Name Continuous Available Complete
Misfire Yes Yes Yes
Fuel System Yes Yes Yes
Components Yes Yes Yes
Catalyst No Yes Yes
Heated Catalyst No No No
Evap System No Yes No
Secondary Air System No No No
AC Refrigerant No No No
Oxygen Sensor No Yes Yes
Oxygen Sensor Heater No Yes Yes
EGR System No Yes Yes

MIL On
Number of Stored Codes: 2
Readiness Standard: None

This vehicle is not ready for emissions testing.

Reason
MIL On
Stored trouble codes have been detected

Trouble Code Report

Code Type Status Description
P1506 PowerTrain Stored Manufacturer Defined
P1504 PowerTrain Stored Manufacturer Defined
Additional Information

PID Description Value Units
SAE 0x21 Distance traveled while MIL is activated 69 miles

Mode $01 - Powertrain Diagnostic Data

PID Description Value Units
SAE 0x03 Fuel system status Closed-loop, using oxygen sensor feedback to determine fuel mix
SAE 0x04 Calculated load value 12.55 %
SAE 0x05 Engine coolant temperature 210.2 F
SAE 0x06 Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1 -3.12 %
SAE 0x07 Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1 3.12 %
SAE 0x08 Short term fuel % trim - Bank 2 2.34 %
SAE 0x09 Long term fuel % trim - Bank 2 5.47 %
SAE 0x0A Fuel rail pressure (gauge) 61.35 PSI
SAE 0x0C Engine RPM 1238.25 RPM
SAE 0x0D Vehicle speed 0 MPH
SAE 0x0E Ignition timing advance for #1 cylinder 3
SAE 0x0F Intake air temperature 122 F
SAE 0x10 Mass air flow rate 0.96 lb/min
SAE 0x11 Absolute throttle position 16.86 %
SAE 0x13 Oxygen sensors present Bank 1: Sensor 1, Sensor 2, Bank 2: Bank 1: Sensor 1, Sensor 2
SAE 0x14 O2 voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 1) 0.14 V
SAE 0x14 Short term fuel trim (Bank 1, Sensor 1) 0.78 %
SAE 0x15 O2 voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2) 0.18 V
SAE 0x15 Short term fuel trim (Bank 1, Sensor 2) -1 %
SAE 0x18 O2 voltage (Bank 2, Sensor 1) 0.84 V
SAE 0x18 Short term fuel trim (Bank 2, Sensor 1) -2.34 %
SAE 0x19 O2 voltage (Bank 2, Sensor 2) 0.14 V
SAE 0x19 Short term fuel trim (Bank 2, Sensor 2) -1 %
SAE 0x1C OBD requirements to which vehicle or engine is certified OBD II (California ARb
SAE 0x21 Distance traveled while MIL is activated 42.87 miles
Aux 0x00 Input voltage read by the scan tool 14.1 V

Mode $02 - Freeze Frame

PID Description Value Units
0x02 Freeze frame DTC P1504
0x03 Fuel system status Closed-loop, using oxygen sensor feedback to determine fuel mix
0x04 Calculated load value 31.76 %
0x05 Engine coolant temperature 159.8 F
0x06 Short term fuel % trim - Bank 1 7.81 %
0x07 Long term fuel % trim - Bank 1 -0.78 %
0x08 Short term fuel % trim - Bank 2 5.47 %
0x09 Long term fuel % trim - Bank 2 -3.12 %
0x0A Fuel rail pressure (gauge) 37.42 PSI
0x0C Engine RPM 830.5 RPM
0x0D Vehicle speed 0 MPH

Mode $05 - Oxygen Sensors

Sensor Available
Bank 1 - Sensor 1 Yes
Bank 1 - Sensor 2 Yes
Bank 1 - Sensor 3 No
Bank 1 - Sensor 4 No
Bank 2 - Sensor 1 Yes
Bank 2 - Sensor 2 Yes
Bank 2 - Sensor 3 No
Bank 2 - Sensor 4 No

Mode $06 - On-Board Monitoring

Component Description Value Minimum Maximum Units Result
Component Id $11 TID $01 - Manufacturer Defined 601 512 N/A Pass
Component Id $21 TID $01 - Manufacturer Defined 826 512 N/A Pass
Component Id $01 TID $03 - Manufacturer Defined 461 0 N/A Pass
Component Id $02 TID $03 - Manufacturer Defined 461 0 N/A Pass
Component Id $11 TID $10 - Manufacturer Defined 15 N/A 50 Pass
Component Id $21 TID $10 - Manufacturer Defined 15 N/A 50 Pass
Component Id $00 TID $26 - Manufacturer Defined 29156 28774 N/A Pass
Component Id $00 TID $26 - Manufacturer Defined 29156 N/A 29184 Pass
Component Id $00 TID $27 - Manufacturer Defined 0 N/A 24576 Pass
Component Id $00 TID $28 - Manufacturer Defined 0 N/A 24576 Pass
Component Id $00 TID $2A - Manufacturer Defined 0 33792 N/A Fail
Component Id $00 TID $2B - Manufacturer Defined 0 35328 N/A Fail
Component Id $00 TID $2C - Manufacturer Defined 0 N/A 24576 Pass
Component Id $00 TID $2D - Manufacturer Defined 0 N/A 24576 Pass
Component Id $11 TID $42 - Manufacturer Defined 32431 31616 N/A Pass
Component Id $12 TID $42 - Manufacturer Defined 32431 N/A 33920 Pass
Component Id $20 TID $45 - Manufacturer Defined 13396 N/A 21106 Pass
Component Id $30 TID $49 - Manufacturer Defined 33898 33536 N/A Pass
Component Id $30 TID $4B - Manufacturer Defined 12886 N/A 26214 Pass
Component Id $00 TID $50 - Manufacturer Defined 0 N/A 655 Pass
Component Id $01 TID $53 - Manufacturer Defined 0 N/A 0 Pass
Component Id $02 TID $53 - Manufacturer Defined 0 N/A 0 Pass
Component Id $03 TID $53 - Manufacturer Defined 0 N/A 0 Pass
Component Id $04 TID $53 - Manufacturer Defined 0 N/A 0 Pass
Component Id $05 TID $53 - Manufacturer Defined 0 N/A 0 Pass
Component Id $06 TID $53 - Manufacturer Defined 0 N/A 0 Pass
Component Id $00 TID $54 - Manufacturer Defined 0 N/A 0 Pass
Component Id $00 TID $55 - Manufacturer Defined 0 N/A 0 Pass
Component Id $00 TID $56 - Manufacturer Defined 14402 N/A 3000 Fail

How does air get trapped in the ABS unit?

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I've been wondering; I don't really understand how air gets trapped in the ABS unit if you replace the master cylinder, or whatever. If the air got IN there (i.e. the valves were open) then can't it also get OUT? The way I understand there must be a path for brake fluid that doesn't normally go through the ABS, and also one that does?? But either way still don't understand how it would get in, but not out. Thanks.

PCV hose connector melting, what causes?

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2005 Taurus, OHV. PCV hose connector (also referred to as Intake Manifold Engine Vacuum Connector) got melted, as shown in the red circle below. The inside of air intake is messy. It looks like I need to replace the entire upper manifold. While what are the causes of the melting? thanks a lot!!!

Peter

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New member from SW Ohio - a repeat Taurus owner

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Actually a 2000 Sable instead of a 2000 Taurus wagon, but I guess that counts right?

My 2000 Taurus wagon didn't give me a bit of trouble the whole time I owned it but my 2000 Sable is giving me fits.

Only because my son drove it into a tree when learning to drive and I'm having some troubles getting it all working again.

All winter, including the Polar Vertex, it was flawless even when sitting outside, it's a great car.

As soon as I find the correct forum for "post tree impact power steering related" questions I'll post there and I'm sure someone will point out whatever I'm overlooking.

TIA

Joe

Newer SHO owner

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Hello all my name is Luke and my wife and I recently purchased a used 2009 SHO. We have loved every minute of the car, well she has since it is her daily driver lol. Anyways look forward to learning some things here. And if you cant see my profile, I am located in Vegas.

New members says hello!

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Hello,

I got old Ford Taurus and I would like to take a good care for it, not being auto-mechanic I am hoping to exchange valuable information with other members on this forum.

Thanks!!

power steering hoses popping off post repair

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I did a lot search and haven't seen anything quite like this yet, hope I didn't miss it. Victim is a 2000 Sable with the DOHC engine. Ran and drove perfectly all winter till my son hit a tree with it at the entrance to our driveway. He is learning to drive, is somewhere between 6'5" and 6'7" and got his legs tangled up on the pedals and hit the accelerator. I watched him hit, the car started and drove to where I did the work on it. The only reason I had to dig into it was because it ran up on a rock in front of the tree and winged the bottom of the rad so it leaked. Well, the cracked rad support was a problem too.

"the work" in this case was removing and replacing everything from the engine forward. Rad support, rad, bumper bar/foam/cover. The power steering/tranny cooler and the AC unit survived just fine but had to come off to get the broken rad support off.

I eventually found all the Sable specific parts and got it back together a few months later. Started it without issues and drove it from the house to the barn, about 200 feet. It was hard to turn so I discovered that the ATF in the cooler was for PS as well as the tranny.

I filled the reservoir and the drivers side PS bottom line into the cooler popped off under pressure with lots of foam when I started the car and tried to drive it. Ok, I have air in the system, that made sense but..... the more I tried to fill it or bleed it, the shorter the time got between starting the car and blowing that line off. It went from maybe 3 minutes to 5 seconds.

I've done countless things to try to get the air out and have had no success. Turning the wheels back and forth by hand with the ignition on, tried pouring ATF in with the engine running and the cap off etc etc.

I eventually found the correct schematics for the PS and AT circuits to be sure it works the way I thought it did, and took it all back apart to be sure nothing was pinched or incorrectly connected (it's pretty much error proofed but I marked the hoses and took photos anyway).

It's all connected just fine, no clogs in the cooler tubing, and no hoses are pinched. I put it back together after refilling the PS reservoir and the bottom line on the PASSENGER (rather than driver) side popped off with lots of foam. I tried it again adding ATF as the car started after prefilling the reservoir and it popped off that same side again.

So I pulled that line off of the passenger side of the cooler (that leads up to the underside of the reservoir, I have the white reservoir version up by the coolant tank) and tried to blow through it. I cannot blow through that line into a full reservoir so either there is an obstruction in that line or a one way check valve to avoid drainback. I can't figure out which. If it's an obstruction, it's not the line going through the rad support, I can move that back and forth.

I've been at this for months while my son was supposed to be learning to drive and I am seriously in the doghouse. even worse, I have three other projects I WANT to be working on (72 VW bus, 67 VW bug, 48 Ford 8N) that are collecting dust while I dork with this thing. It all seems pretty dang simple, there must be something I am overlooking. I hope you guys can tell me what it is.

I have lots of photos etc but this is long enough as it is.

Summary/Cliff Notes. Perfectly running car popping lines off of the lower tube on the PS cooler after repair to the front end that involved R&R the cooler and radiator.

Thanks a million in advance for help or suggestions.

Joe

Taurus - Rowling/rattling weird noise on startup

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Hello,

I recorded the sound my car makes when I try to start it (watch the whole video I try it multiple times):

Taurus, rough engine startup - YouTube

Can I describe it maybe like a rowling, slight rattle, hoarseness sound? The most noticeable it is only for couple of minutes and then it fades away, but not completely. Maybe it is a little bit less noticeable when I turn my AC on. The sound has no effect on the driving. Gauges seem to be stable.

My car is Ford Taurus 2001 SE with slightly over 100k miles. I take it for regular checkups and oil changes. It has been very dependable so far, the only bigger repairs done recently were AC recharge and new spark-plugs (about 5 months ago).

There is also no check engine light on.

Has anyone any idea what might be wrong? Thank you very much for any input !!

Gen 4 Mesh Grille

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Its taking up space and deserves to be on a good looking bull. Can be modified to fit the factory spear.

$20 plus shipping.

Newbie


2004 Vulcan won't slow down

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My babied, well-maintained 2004 Taurus 3.0 Vulcan 116k miles has just developed a problem after a long freeway drive: I exit the freeway from driving at 65-70 mph, and the car is "idling" at 40 mph (foot off the gas, cruise off). I can bring it to a stop, put it in neutral, and the rpms are 2500, and then they do fall off to a normal idle.
There is no code, and no check engine light. Car seems to be running normally otherwise. I took off and cleaned the IAC, no change.

Throttle cable and throttle plate move freely with no obstruction. Cleaned throttle body and pivot, no change.

Should I suspect the TPS? Or the speed sensor? Or?

This is an intermittent problem, it's done it twice after two longer trips. It has not acted up otherwise, so I can't picture taking it to the dealer and getting it to exhibit this behavior!

Any help is appreciated! Thanks!

Paul

Engine goes to idle when I let off gas at city speeds

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2002 ford taurus sel vin #2 flex fuel . I just put my engine and transmission back in after a trans swap . And now when I am going down the road and I let off gas my engine rpm goes down to idle and back up to 1500 rmp then just back and forth . I can't seem to pin piont the problem . It comes and goes. Also what should my trans temp be . I have dash command if that will help anyone help me lol . Getting frustrated help please

odd odometer question

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So just bought the car from my buddy and when I look at the registration it says that Jan 2013 the car was registered withe 185601 miles on it. Strangle enough the car now has 165422 miles on it. 1.5 years later and 20 less miles hmmm....

So my question is... is there a way that I can roll the odometer forwards? Like maybe a brill and some duct tape attached to the gear or is it an electronic sensor that runs the gauage. Anyways if someone could let me know I would appreciate it. I really don't want to go in to title it and leave with a branded title for inaccurate milage :(

help it's summer and a/c not working! I'm melting, I'm melting

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I have a 2001 ford Taurus Lx, and the a/c is not working. I hear the fan blowing, but I get nothing but hot air... What are some things to try???

Evaporator Core Replacement 96-07

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My 2000 was finally diagnosed with the issue I have had since I bought the car (and has probably had for some time). My evaporator core is leaking. After hooking up plugs and applying vacuum, one can see a large leak in the evap core since the needle quickly moves. So now I get to take the dashboard out (fine). This car has never had frosty ice cold air like other Tauruses I've been in.

I also know I have to remove the HVAC box from the firewall. Once I have it off though, what happens with removing the evaporator core? Do I have to cut the plastic apart or is it a cover like the heater core on a Gen 3/4?
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