Hello folks. I'm a new member from Parsonsburg, MD seeking assistance with fixing a brake issue with my mother-in-laws 1994 Ford Taurus GL 3.0 V6. I'm putting in time on the car to save her a dime.
↧
New Taurus Club Member
↧
Engine, Torque Converter, or Tranny?
So, intermittent PO0442 Code being thrown. Actually had the "check gas cap" dash light a week ago. Gas cap was replaced a month ago after having this code pop up.
While accelerating at a grandma pace, I notice a bump in rpm's in a 200 rpm increment while holding the pedal steady. It does not do it all the time. Just here and there. You feel it, and hear it. 80 miles an hour on the highway, rpm's at 2700, and you see the tach move a little.
Hood open, pulling on throttle linkage, I hear a sucking sound at the intake. Normal?
Is this rpm waver a vacuum leak?
While accelerating at a grandma pace, I notice a bump in rpm's in a 200 rpm increment while holding the pedal steady. It does not do it all the time. Just here and there. You feel it, and hear it. 80 miles an hour on the highway, rpm's at 2700, and you see the tach move a little.
Hood open, pulling on throttle linkage, I hear a sucking sound at the intake. Normal?
Is this rpm waver a vacuum leak?
↧
↧
tcca
i would love to join your club. have owned a taurus for years. cant't get past the intro screen, am i doing something wrong???
↧
Cylinder 6 Misfire
Hello all,
Yesterday I had left work and as I started driving down the road I got the flashing MIL and really rough running at low rpm, in addition to the smell of unburnt gas. Got the car to autoparts place for a code read and got generic cylinder 6 misfire. Doesn't seem to be a lean misfire as I'm smelling the unburnt gas. Not too sure what else it could be, did a tune up about 3k miles ago. Motocraft plug wires, but I seem to have committed a sin and put Bosch plugs in. Going to change out the one misfiring cylinder with an Autolite doubleplat. Not sure what else could be causing it, the wires seem fine, no breaks or anything.
The only other thing I can think of is the injector is stuck open, but it seems to feel that it is actuating. I also thought that maybe the coil is going bad, but I've never heard of a single cylinder going bad on one of these coil boxes. I am going to change the plug in the am, I'll post picture or video depending on it to see how bad it may be,.
Thanks all,
Billy
Yesterday I had left work and as I started driving down the road I got the flashing MIL and really rough running at low rpm, in addition to the smell of unburnt gas. Got the car to autoparts place for a code read and got generic cylinder 6 misfire. Doesn't seem to be a lean misfire as I'm smelling the unburnt gas. Not too sure what else it could be, did a tune up about 3k miles ago. Motocraft plug wires, but I seem to have committed a sin and put Bosch plugs in. Going to change out the one misfiring cylinder with an Autolite doubleplat. Not sure what else could be causing it, the wires seem fine, no breaks or anything.
The only other thing I can think of is the injector is stuck open, but it seems to feel that it is actuating. I also thought that maybe the coil is going bad, but I've never heard of a single cylinder going bad on one of these coil boxes. I am going to change the plug in the am, I'll post picture or video depending on it to see how bad it may be,.
Thanks all,
Billy
↧
wheel hub bolts
I'm replacing a front wheel hub. I was about to put the new hub in but I noticed that the bolts look to have some bluing on the end. I was wondering if I should be using something like threadlocker on the bolts?
↧
↧
tcca
would love to join your group taurus owner for 15 years
↧
Hello ALL
I am new member from NY!
↧
not working, try again:)
hello all:) my friends
↧
Hard decision: 2015 taurus limit AWD or 2016 fusion Energi SE luxury
I like both cars. If only consider the appearance, I preferred taurus. However, fusion Energi has a better MPG and I feel the power is enough for me.
I also compared some shared deals in autopriceshare.com, it seems that 2015 Taurus have a bigger discount. For 2015 taurus limited AWD, it has nearly $7000 off MSRP. For 2016 fusion energi, it only has $2000 off MSRP.
People here at last have one of these cars. I am appreciated if you could share your opinions with me: which one is better in you opinion?
I also compared some shared deals in autopriceshare.com, it seems that 2015 Taurus have a bigger discount. For 2015 taurus limited AWD, it has nearly $7000 off MSRP. For 2016 fusion energi, it only has $2000 off MSRP.
People here at last have one of these cars. I am appreciated if you could share your opinions with me: which one is better in you opinion?
↧
↧
Hello everyone.
My name is Jake Thomas,
Recently the company where I work as the electronics service manager retired my service vehicle,
and now I have an 08 Taurus x that with the help & info on this forum will keep it going for many years to come!
Recently the company where I work as the electronics service manager retired my service vehicle,
and now I have an 08 Taurus x that with the help & info on this forum will keep it going for many years to come!
↧
Front Brakes Sticking
My mother-in-law owns a 1994 Ford Taurus GL 3.0 V6 that has the front brakes sticking. First let me give you some background, the rear drivers side had a bad leak and she continued to fill with brake fluid until one day her pedal went to the floor. I looked it over and found that the cylinders in the rear had been leaking and the inside of both rear drums were grimed up like nothing I've ever seen. I replaced the rear cylinders, shoes, springs, retainers, and drums. Did my best to adjust the shoes. I took it for a spin and had pretty good pedal and it braked well, no pull on either side while driving or braking. When I got to the house I decided to give it a bath, wanting to earn some additional kudos and score some of that killer potato salad she makes, and found that spraying water on both front wheels caused some serious steaming. So, knowing they shouldn't be that hot I took a look at both front brake calipers and found decent pads but the pistons would not back off entirely, even with the bleeder open. I thought they were probably never replaced and were possibly sticking so I replaced both front calipers as well with new hardware and also replaced both hoses. I did not replace the rotors or pads. During the install on both the rear and front I bled the lines to remove any air. I took it for a ride and found that once again the front brakes were both smoking hot. Any help diagnosing this one would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
↧
1995 Ford Taurus GL: a P.O.S. but A Trooper, none the less
I have 1995 Ford Taurus GL. The speedometer doesn't work, along with 1/2 of the rest of the car. My boyfriend and I have replaced//fixed a ton of things since January 11th.
It's now April 19th and we've replaced the starter, some hoses and tubing, replaced stereo with a new pioneer deck w/ 2 "12 pioneer subs in the trunk and an amp. We have also tried (but failed) at replacing the speedo,meter cable.
We are about to do a cooling system flush as well as a power steering system flush. After that we need desperately to do an oil change and trans fluid change as well as change the spark plugs and clean the distributor cap. I tried convincing him that the fluids and tune up should have been first but he thought otherwise and went his own route of complication and audio equipment.
Regardless, we're teaching ourselves everything and having a blast learning. We're making tons of progress and the internet is our best friend and teacher through it all. plus friends and their hand me down parts and advice <3
It's now April 19th and we've replaced the starter, some hoses and tubing, replaced stereo with a new pioneer deck w/ 2 "12 pioneer subs in the trunk and an amp. We have also tried (but failed) at replacing the speedo,meter cable.
We are about to do a cooling system flush as well as a power steering system flush. After that we need desperately to do an oil change and trans fluid change as well as change the spark plugs and clean the distributor cap. I tried convincing him that the fluids and tune up should have been first but he thought otherwise and went his own route of complication and audio equipment.
Regardless, we're teaching ourselves everything and having a blast learning. We're making tons of progress and the internet is our best friend and teacher through it all. plus friends and their hand me down parts and advice <3
↧
Hi, just joined today
Hello,
My name is TJ from San Diego, CA. I've been reading threads here for some time, because I've owned a 2008 Taurus SEL for 4 years, and I have done most of the repairs myself. I have learned a lot about my Taurus in that time, and I hope to learn more and share my knowledge too.
Thanks for adding me to your club!
My name is TJ from San Diego, CA. I've been reading threads here for some time, because I've owned a 2008 Taurus SEL for 4 years, and I have done most of the repairs myself. I have learned a lot about my Taurus in that time, and I hope to learn more and share my knowledge too.
Thanks for adding me to your club!
↧
↧
Rear stabilizer bar links
Are there any special procedures for replacing the rear stabilizer bar links on a 2000 Taurus?
↧
Hello from South Carolina!
Hello everyone!
Found the forums via google, a blessing for sure.
Title states it... I'm over in South Carolina, but have lived all over the world. Being from a military family, it was really good finally settling down in one country, and one state.
I have a 2003 Taurus SES.
I was a cop for 13 years before retiring after being hit by a car while on a traffic stop.
Welp, there ya have it. ;)
Found the forums via google, a blessing for sure.
Title states it... I'm over in South Carolina, but have lived all over the world. Being from a military family, it was really good finally settling down in one country, and one state.
I have a 2003 Taurus SES.
I was a cop for 13 years before retiring after being hit by a car while on a traffic stop.
Welp, there ya have it. ;)
↧
Hello!
Hey everyone, used this site before for advice about figuring out what's up with my car before and it's been a great help! Now, I've got a question that I can't quite find the answer to, so I figured I'd register and see if you nice people couldn't offer some guidance and advice!
↧
2003 Taurus SES stuttering at idle and accel...
So, I tried searching through the first ten pages, and also used the search feature, but wasn't sure if I saw anything similar to this new problem.
We've had the car since 2007, it had just over 70K miles on it. Since then we've put 124,000+ miles.
This is the first set of issues we've come across.
While sitting in park, idle, it's not that bad, but noticeable. When in drive, whether it's at a stop light, or accelerating, the car stutters now.
I hope that's the right word to describe it.
The engine light came on. I've ordered a reader/scan tool, but that won't be here until Tuesday coming. The other issue, which doesn't really seem all that important, is the door open indicator light stays on now, even though all doors are secure.
I'm interesting in learning about the causes of the problems and hopefully it's something I can fix w/o having to get a loan lol. Any advice, help, etc., will be greatly appreciated.
We've had the car since 2007, it had just over 70K miles on it. Since then we've put 124,000+ miles.
This is the first set of issues we've come across.
While sitting in park, idle, it's not that bad, but noticeable. When in drive, whether it's at a stop light, or accelerating, the car stutters now.
I hope that's the right word to describe it.
The engine light came on. I've ordered a reader/scan tool, but that won't be here until Tuesday coming. The other issue, which doesn't really seem all that important, is the door open indicator light stays on now, even though all doors are secure.
I'm interesting in learning about the causes of the problems and hopefully it's something I can fix w/o having to get a loan lol. Any advice, help, etc., will be greatly appreciated.
↧
↧
2004 Taurus (Vulcan?) has trouble starting
EDIT: Sorry this is so long, I was just trying to give as much info as I could with what I've noticed going on!
Hey everyone,
I've had a 2004 Taurus (I believe it's a Vulcan engine, the 8th character in the VIN is U) for about two years. Bear with me please, I'm not a huge car person, but hopefully I'm accurately explaining what's going on. A few months ago, my battery seemed to go kaput, I bought a new one but that didn't seem to fix it. Took it to the shop, got it fixed, unfortunately can't remember what they said the issue was.
Fast forward to about two weeks ago, my car had trouble starting. The check engine light had been on for awhile, but I kinda figured it was just a maintenance thing (I just recently broke 100k miles). It cranked for awhile and didn't actually start until I pumped the gas a bit (it only seem(s/ed) like it does this if it's been sitting for awhile. After doing some research, I think I understand that pumping the gas doesn't really do anything in a fuel injected car? Just another note, sometimes in between attempts at starting, the clock seemed to reset.
I was overdue for an oil change, so I figured I'd start there before taking it to a mechanic and getting an absurd diagnostic charge for them to tell me I needed to get an oil change. I'm a poor college student, so I had to wait about a week til payday to get it changed and by then the battery had seemed to die. Had a friend jump me a few days before I took it to get the oil changed and it would start (although still cranking slow and for awhile before it actually started) for a couple of days. Finally payday came and got an oil change. While there, they told me that my serpentine belt was cracked and that the fuel and air filters should be replaced. This would have all cost about 160$ if I had them do it, which was more money than I could spend. They didn't seem to make anything urgent out of it, so I figured I'd wait until I could afford all of it or see what of that I could do on my own without a labor fee. Immediately after, the car was still having issues starting. The next day, the battery seemed to give out again.
Figuring the belt being loose or not gripping properly could cause the alternator to not charge the battery properly, I picked up a belt and replaced it (that was fun, I'm not the strongest person in the world haha). Still had wouldn't start, but I figured it was the battery still hadn't gotten charged. Asked a friend for a jump, and they said they could be there in a few hours after work. During this time I remembered I had the old battery I'd replaced relatively recently and was going to switch them out and see if I could get it going. Before I tried switching I went ahead and tried starting it again and it seemed to crank better than right after I'd replaced the belt. Got it started after awhile and drove around hoping the battery would charge. Went home and my car started up just fine until last night (I replaced the belt on Friday). By the way, yesterday, I cleaned up the corrosion on the positive battery terminal and when I went to drive again, the check engine light wasn't on anymore.
Last night it rained while I was at a friend's house and when I was leaving it did the slow long crank thing again. Hoped it was just something about the rain and figured I'd see what happened this morning. Tried it first thing this morning and it seemed even more like the battery was weak/dead. It cranked briefly and then stopped for a few seconds and then started cranking again.
Went back to look online and see if there was something I could figure out, found out about the EST and cycled through it looking for the battery voltage (I don't have immediate access to a multimeter). Just then it read around 9v. I know it's supposed to be around 12v when the car is off, so I was about to give up. Figured I'd just try a couple more ignorant, desperate things and pulled out the air filter (didn't look THAT bad, but what do I know?) and gave it a few good hits on the wall and put it back. Tried starting the car one more time and it cranked slowly, but seemed to pick up. Taking this as a good sign I tried again, and it sounded like it was starting, but immediately after the engine seemed to fire up, it died. Tried a few more times and it started and stayed on after the third try.
Drove around again, went home so I wouldn't be stranded if it didn't start when I tried to enter the test mode again to see what was going on with the voltage while the car was running. Drove around some more, the voltage hung out around 14v when the engine was on. I assume this means the alternator is working properly? Went home and waited half an hour or so and checked the voltage again, 12.4ish volts. Checked to make sure the dome light and trunk light were turning off properly, and they seem to be doing it right.
So, it seemed weird to me that it would actually start at 9v at all since that seems to be really low. I'm not sure if there's much room for error in the ETM. So I'm not really sure what's going on since it seemed to crank at really low voltage and even STARTED, so maybe it's not a battery issue? Do these things sound like the something a clogged fuel filter would cause? Just in my reading here and other places online, I'm starting to think maybe the starter is acting up, but wouldn't that mean that it would have trouble starting EVERY time and not just after it's been sitting for awhile? I'm fully expecting that I'll get up and try to start it tomorrow and it'll all be happening again, so I was just wondering if anyone had any ideas as to what could be going on?
This turned out really long, so I'd just like to say thanks if you read through all of it and hopefully I've given you a good idea about what I've noticed going on with my car. If I've left anything out or you've got any questions, let me know and I'll try to answer as best I can. Again, thanks for reading and offering any ideas/advice you have!
Hey everyone,
I've had a 2004 Taurus (I believe it's a Vulcan engine, the 8th character in the VIN is U) for about two years. Bear with me please, I'm not a huge car person, but hopefully I'm accurately explaining what's going on. A few months ago, my battery seemed to go kaput, I bought a new one but that didn't seem to fix it. Took it to the shop, got it fixed, unfortunately can't remember what they said the issue was.
Fast forward to about two weeks ago, my car had trouble starting. The check engine light had been on for awhile, but I kinda figured it was just a maintenance thing (I just recently broke 100k miles). It cranked for awhile and didn't actually start until I pumped the gas a bit (it only seem(s/ed) like it does this if it's been sitting for awhile. After doing some research, I think I understand that pumping the gas doesn't really do anything in a fuel injected car? Just another note, sometimes in between attempts at starting, the clock seemed to reset.
I was overdue for an oil change, so I figured I'd start there before taking it to a mechanic and getting an absurd diagnostic charge for them to tell me I needed to get an oil change. I'm a poor college student, so I had to wait about a week til payday to get it changed and by then the battery had seemed to die. Had a friend jump me a few days before I took it to get the oil changed and it would start (although still cranking slow and for awhile before it actually started) for a couple of days. Finally payday came and got an oil change. While there, they told me that my serpentine belt was cracked and that the fuel and air filters should be replaced. This would have all cost about 160$ if I had them do it, which was more money than I could spend. They didn't seem to make anything urgent out of it, so I figured I'd wait until I could afford all of it or see what of that I could do on my own without a labor fee. Immediately after, the car was still having issues starting. The next day, the battery seemed to give out again.
Figuring the belt being loose or not gripping properly could cause the alternator to not charge the battery properly, I picked up a belt and replaced it (that was fun, I'm not the strongest person in the world haha). Still had wouldn't start, but I figured it was the battery still hadn't gotten charged. Asked a friend for a jump, and they said they could be there in a few hours after work. During this time I remembered I had the old battery I'd replaced relatively recently and was going to switch them out and see if I could get it going. Before I tried switching I went ahead and tried starting it again and it seemed to crank better than right after I'd replaced the belt. Got it started after awhile and drove around hoping the battery would charge. Went home and my car started up just fine until last night (I replaced the belt on Friday). By the way, yesterday, I cleaned up the corrosion on the positive battery terminal and when I went to drive again, the check engine light wasn't on anymore.
Last night it rained while I was at a friend's house and when I was leaving it did the slow long crank thing again. Hoped it was just something about the rain and figured I'd see what happened this morning. Tried it first thing this morning and it seemed even more like the battery was weak/dead. It cranked briefly and then stopped for a few seconds and then started cranking again.
Went back to look online and see if there was something I could figure out, found out about the EST and cycled through it looking for the battery voltage (I don't have immediate access to a multimeter). Just then it read around 9v. I know it's supposed to be around 12v when the car is off, so I was about to give up. Figured I'd just try a couple more ignorant, desperate things and pulled out the air filter (didn't look THAT bad, but what do I know?) and gave it a few good hits on the wall and put it back. Tried starting the car one more time and it cranked slowly, but seemed to pick up. Taking this as a good sign I tried again, and it sounded like it was starting, but immediately after the engine seemed to fire up, it died. Tried a few more times and it started and stayed on after the third try.
Drove around again, went home so I wouldn't be stranded if it didn't start when I tried to enter the test mode again to see what was going on with the voltage while the car was running. Drove around some more, the voltage hung out around 14v when the engine was on. I assume this means the alternator is working properly? Went home and waited half an hour or so and checked the voltage again, 12.4ish volts. Checked to make sure the dome light and trunk light were turning off properly, and they seem to be doing it right.
So, it seemed weird to me that it would actually start at 9v at all since that seems to be really low. I'm not sure if there's much room for error in the ETM. So I'm not really sure what's going on since it seemed to crank at really low voltage and even STARTED, so maybe it's not a battery issue? Do these things sound like the something a clogged fuel filter would cause? Just in my reading here and other places online, I'm starting to think maybe the starter is acting up, but wouldn't that mean that it would have trouble starting EVERY time and not just after it's been sitting for awhile? I'm fully expecting that I'll get up and try to start it tomorrow and it'll all be happening again, so I was just wondering if anyone had any ideas as to what could be going on?
This turned out really long, so I'd just like to say thanks if you read through all of it and hopefully I've given you a good idea about what I've noticed going on with my car. If I've left anything out or you've got any questions, let me know and I'll try to answer as best I can. Again, thanks for reading and offering any ideas/advice you have!
↧
Hello new member post
Hello all!
My name is David Haney. I live in the South West in Albuquerque New Mexico. Yes its a state. No you dont need a passport.
I am marrird, and have 5 boys and 3 grand childerm
My educated trade is HVAC. My current job title is HVAC mechanic at a large pharmaceutical company.
I usually am a dyi when it comes to repairing my vehicles.
Looking foward to reading posts.
My name is David Haney. I live in the South West in Albuquerque New Mexico. Yes its a state. No you dont need a passport.
I am marrird, and have 5 boys and 3 grand childerm
My educated trade is HVAC. My current job title is HVAC mechanic at a large pharmaceutical company.
I usually am a dyi when it comes to repairing my vehicles.
Looking foward to reading posts.
↧
SHO swapped gen I Sable wagon
Hi all, don't think I've posted here sine 2008! Been on SHOForum since 2001, and I picked up a 1987 Sable LS wagon last September with a full SHO swap--engine, 5-speed manual, seats, console, etc. Been restoring it (swap was originally done by a Ford engineer back in the early 1990s) and using it as a semi-daily driver.
Couple questions--anyone seen or had any luck bolting up a body kit? I have gen I SHO door cladding and rocker trim, but it's not a perfect fit. Also, trying to source out some exterior parts, and well, that's not easy for a 28 year old wagon. Any good resources to check out? New front light bar and rear 1/4 cladding are at the top of my list.
Thanks for the help :)
Couple questions--anyone seen or had any luck bolting up a body kit? I have gen I SHO door cladding and rocker trim, but it's not a perfect fit. Also, trying to source out some exterior parts, and well, that's not easy for a 28 year old wagon. Any good resources to check out? New front light bar and rear 1/4 cladding are at the top of my list.
Thanks for the help :)
↧