Bought a 1995 Taurus in 2008, had no desire to specifically purchase a Ford, was just looking for a good deal. I had that 95' all these years and it never let me down or left me stranded. Recently decided it was time to upgrade, so bought another Taurus, this time a 2007.
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newbie
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Code PO174 on 2003 Taurus (causes?)
The cold winter took it's toll on my car's electronics. Now that things have warmed up a bit... things have gone back to normal, except for one new problem.
Shortly after filling up my gas tank earlier in the day, the check engine light came on. My code reader is showing PO174 which I believe has to do with the car running too lean. I did a google search and it lists all the symptoms that I should be experiencing. The car runs perfectly. There's no performance issues that seem out of the ordinary. Plugs are about 2-3 years old. Wires are under a year old. Coilpack is fairly new. Battery is new. Air filter was done a few months ago. It's been well maintained. I poured a can of Seafoam into the tank about 2 weeks ago.
In the past I had briefly experienced a misfire on one of the cylinders and my Ford mechanic had thought it was probably due to a very slight amount of coolant leaking into the cylinder. To play it safe, I replaced the one plug. Never had a problem since.
So.... I'm wondering if there's something else I should be looking at or could this just be a screwy sensor.
03 Taurus . 185,000 kms (114,000 miles)
Shortly after filling up my gas tank earlier in the day, the check engine light came on. My code reader is showing PO174 which I believe has to do with the car running too lean. I did a google search and it lists all the symptoms that I should be experiencing. The car runs perfectly. There's no performance issues that seem out of the ordinary. Plugs are about 2-3 years old. Wires are under a year old. Coilpack is fairly new. Battery is new. Air filter was done a few months ago. It's been well maintained. I poured a can of Seafoam into the tank about 2 weeks ago.
In the past I had briefly experienced a misfire on one of the cylinders and my Ford mechanic had thought it was probably due to a very slight amount of coolant leaking into the cylinder. To play it safe, I replaced the one plug. Never had a problem since.
So.... I'm wondering if there's something else I should be looking at or could this just be a screwy sensor.
03 Taurus . 185,000 kms (114,000 miles)
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'99 Sable Exhaust Question
Ok, I have a couple questions. I'm wanting to get a new muffler for my '99 Sable (Vulcan). I've never run anything other than Flowmaster (I'm a loyal Mustang guy (hence username), and the tinny sound they make on that pushrod 302 is a perfect symphony, but I digress). So, I'm up for different options this time, although I would like to stick with Flowmaster. It's probably very subjective, but what mufflers do most people like to go with on the Vulcan motor? If I go with an aftermarket muffler will I lose any bottom end...I'd like to keep what little bottom end the Vulcan has. In fact, I don't really care about top-end because I don't really like to speed all over town...although I do like to get to said speed quickly.
Another question, what the H is the resonator and what is it there for? I see exactly where it is, but what does it do? Do I gain anything by removing that?
One last thing while I'm thinking about it...I just want to confirm that it is a 2.25" system. I'd like to dual it out in the back because I just like the look of 2 stainless steel pipes out back but if I sacrifice any bottom end by doing that I'm completely against it.
Feel free to chime in on whatever advice you have available. I'd like to start researching the muffler/exhaust options that are out there for the Vulcan. I'm not too concerned about droning. I have my entire car Dynamatted for sound system purposes, and also have this stuff called 'Floor Muffler' on top of the Dynamat on the floorboards. Thanks, guys!
Another question, what the H is the resonator and what is it there for? I see exactly where it is, but what does it do? Do I gain anything by removing that?
One last thing while I'm thinking about it...I just want to confirm that it is a 2.25" system. I'd like to dual it out in the back because I just like the look of 2 stainless steel pipes out back but if I sacrifice any bottom end by doing that I'm completely against it.
Feel free to chime in on whatever advice you have available. I'd like to start researching the muffler/exhaust options that are out there for the Vulcan. I'm not too concerned about droning. I have my entire car Dynamatted for sound system purposes, and also have this stuff called 'Floor Muffler' on top of the Dynamat on the floorboards. Thanks, guys!
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Hello from Colorado Springs
Hows it going? My name is Kevin, just got a 2013 Ford Taurus SEL last week( First new car worth over 5k, coming from a 2001 Plymouth Neon). V6 Non turbo, just when over 51000 miles today going to work.
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Checking in from Orange County!
Hey all! I'm joining you all from Orange County, California! I decided to pick up a nice, reliable (hopefully) daily driver. I'm in the process of cutting monthly expenses so my car payment had to go! I found a clean well maintained 1997 Taurus GL sold by the original owner. It's in great shape aside from a tiny bit of trunk rust around the size of a stick of gum. The car itself only has 85xxx miles on it and was purchased with full service records. I'm excited to learn more about it as well as keep it properly maintained and reliable as possible. The only mods I have in mind at the moment are some new wheels and possibly and aftermarket stereo if those exist for a car of this age. I'm excited to meet you all!
-Mike
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-Mike
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hello
hi all, came here looking for info on fixing my 2004 ford taurus. been lurking and reading for a while now and wanted to register. great information.
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'99 Sable Seats
I sure would like to get 2 new or new-ish front seats for my '99 Sable. The driver side seat has really lost it's "springness" and I have wanted new seats for a few months. Can I re-pad the seats in it? Can I switch seats - passenger to driver if I remove them from the tracks? I have a power driver-side and manual passenger in there now. What would it cost to have them re-padded or to bring them back to life? What year model seats will bolt right in so I can expand my search query...obviously the gen-3s will but what other gens are interchangeable? Sure would make my morning commute a lot more comfortable. I sure would like some leather in there as well. Please advise.
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Ricinflorida
2007 Taurus SEL
just picked up
just picked up
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96 Ford Taurus - Front end clunking noise
My daughter has a 96 Ford Taurus. She is getting a clunking sound from the front end that I haven't been able to track down.
I notice it most when turning from one side to the next. Turn left it clunks, turn right it clunks, then again when you turn back left. It's just a single clunk, not a repeating click-click-click like I would expect from a CV joint. It usually doesn't make any noise driving straight down the road, but I can easily duplicate the clunk by quickly turning the wheel left and right while driving.
I also noticed it last night when driving slowly (walking speed), straight ahead, forward or backward. Over a 30 foot distance it will clunk maybe twice. I had my wife drive the car forward and backward as I walked along side and the noise "seems" to be coming from the passenger side but I can't be totally certain of that.
I replaced the sway bar links last year. I also replaced both front strut assemblies yesterday. That fixed the other noises the struts were making, but the clunking is still there.
The clunk is fairly strong and can be felt in the gas pedal and steering wheel. But it is very random when driving the car. The only way I've been able to force it to clunk is the sharp side to side turns described above.
Any clues what this might be?
I notice it most when turning from one side to the next. Turn left it clunks, turn right it clunks, then again when you turn back left. It's just a single clunk, not a repeating click-click-click like I would expect from a CV joint. It usually doesn't make any noise driving straight down the road, but I can easily duplicate the clunk by quickly turning the wheel left and right while driving.
I also noticed it last night when driving slowly (walking speed), straight ahead, forward or backward. Over a 30 foot distance it will clunk maybe twice. I had my wife drive the car forward and backward as I walked along side and the noise "seems" to be coming from the passenger side but I can't be totally certain of that.
I replaced the sway bar links last year. I also replaced both front strut assemblies yesterday. That fixed the other noises the struts were making, but the clunking is still there.
The clunk is fairly strong and can be felt in the gas pedal and steering wheel. But it is very random when driving the car. The only way I've been able to force it to clunk is the sharp side to side turns described above.
Any clues what this might be?
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Difficult BJ separation
Going to put this up here and save a link in my system and refer back to this for the most difficult BJ/contol arm issues.
This on a used car, someone else had used a pickle fork and ruined the BJ boots, cut both sides. The nuts were to tight I had to use a 16" breaker bar and 2.5' pipe extension to loosen the nuts. Spec is 59 ftlb. So last one must have just run them up with air impact, harder is better, no chance of separation.:angry:
First I used a picke fork, modified by disc grinder flattening the ramp for more bite and 4# hammer, heat and no help, cut the stud off with a recrip saw. Used puller, based on steel plate, washer on top, 2 tourch heat and 4# hammer with no help.
Removed the LCA and put it out back, solid concrete block, steel plate over, washer to put force only on the arm, 2 tourch heat, 8# hammer, over head lick, 3rd one broke it loose.
On the other side, I replaced the LCA rather than do this again, just cut the BJ stud and pulled the LCA.
Other cases, '98 also cut boot by Ford dealer, but I got it with the puller and heat. Lin Cont also done by Ford dealer. In this case, I got it with the diagram in the pic, using a wedge and hammers on both sides of the aluminum LCA. Aluminum is a bit different in the hammering works, and I was not replacing the BJ, just the half shaft they messed up. Dealer out of business so no warrenty on their work.
Just sharing.
-chart-
This on a used car, someone else had used a pickle fork and ruined the BJ boots, cut both sides. The nuts were to tight I had to use a 16" breaker bar and 2.5' pipe extension to loosen the nuts. Spec is 59 ftlb. So last one must have just run them up with air impact, harder is better, no chance of separation.:angry:
First I used a picke fork, modified by disc grinder flattening the ramp for more bite and 4# hammer, heat and no help, cut the stud off with a recrip saw. Used puller, based on steel plate, washer on top, 2 tourch heat and 4# hammer with no help.
Removed the LCA and put it out back, solid concrete block, steel plate over, washer to put force only on the arm, 2 tourch heat, 8# hammer, over head lick, 3rd one broke it loose.
On the other side, I replaced the LCA rather than do this again, just cut the BJ stud and pulled the LCA.
Other cases, '98 also cut boot by Ford dealer, but I got it with the puller and heat. Lin Cont also done by Ford dealer. In this case, I got it with the diagram in the pic, using a wedge and hammers on both sides of the aluminum LCA. Aluminum is a bit different in the hammering works, and I was not replacing the BJ, just the half shaft they messed up. Dealer out of business so no warrenty on their work.
Just sharing.
-chart-
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Huntervf's 87 Sable LS SHO-swapped wagon
Ok, so some quick history...this car was purchased new in SE Michigan by a Ford engineer back in 1987. In 1989 the same engineer bought the then-new 1989 Taurus SHO. In 1991 the SHO was crashed and totaled by the insurance company. Being an engineer, well, you can probably figure out the rest :)
The full swap SHO swap was done in 1991; the donor SHO only had 39,000 miles on it. The swap looks completely factory, and over the years the wagon also got Eibachs & Tokicos, Mustang GT dual-piston front brakes, Thunderbird Super Coupe wheels, all while keeping it stock on the outside. It wasn't driven much over the years and aside from a couple winters stayed out of the Michigan salt. But it spent much of its time outside so the elements exacted a bit of a toll.
A couple years ago the engineer put it up for sale. I didn't catch it, but a friend of mine in Grand Rapids did and he bought it. He's a mechanic, and he did some maintenance to bring it back up to good mechanical condition. Also had a little bit of paint work done, but he was using it as a daily driver. Last summer he put it up for sale; I was planning a move west so I wasn't in a position to buy. It stayed up for sale through the summer, and he still had it in September when I was back in Michigan (I'm in South Dakota now), so I booked a one-way flight, bought it and drove it back.
It was already in good shape, but still in need of restoration and some TLC. I work from home so it's a semi-daily driver, garage kept and I'm slowing restoring it & doing a bit more appearance wise to make it a bit more visually appealing. I've had many SHOs over the years so I know the engine well, and I'm not too bad when it comes to paint / body work and interiors. In my care I've refinished the wheels, did a good amount of underhood maintenance & cleaning, new headliner, refinished the roof rack rails, window tint, added a 73mm MAF & front strut tower bar, and I'm in the process of building custom first-generation SHO-style rocker trim (it's not a direct bolt-on) to use with the existing Sable LS door skirts.
Everything works on the car, right down to the R-12 A/C. When I did the headliner I also redyed most of the interior panels gray as they were a bit worn. The seats still need recovered or swapped with good gray SHO seats and the dash is pretty cracked up. I do have a good replacement dash to swap in, but I'll wait on that project until I need to remove the dash, because honestly, I'd rather remove the engine than the dash.
Anyway, that's more or less where I'm at. LOVE the wagon--always wanted a first-gen SHO swapped wagon and this one with the mods it has just drives amazingly well. Handles tight, pulls strong, now I just need to jazz up the exterior a bit and finish the restoration.
The full swap SHO swap was done in 1991; the donor SHO only had 39,000 miles on it. The swap looks completely factory, and over the years the wagon also got Eibachs & Tokicos, Mustang GT dual-piston front brakes, Thunderbird Super Coupe wheels, all while keeping it stock on the outside. It wasn't driven much over the years and aside from a couple winters stayed out of the Michigan salt. But it spent much of its time outside so the elements exacted a bit of a toll.
A couple years ago the engineer put it up for sale. I didn't catch it, but a friend of mine in Grand Rapids did and he bought it. He's a mechanic, and he did some maintenance to bring it back up to good mechanical condition. Also had a little bit of paint work done, but he was using it as a daily driver. Last summer he put it up for sale; I was planning a move west so I wasn't in a position to buy. It stayed up for sale through the summer, and he still had it in September when I was back in Michigan (I'm in South Dakota now), so I booked a one-way flight, bought it and drove it back.
It was already in good shape, but still in need of restoration and some TLC. I work from home so it's a semi-daily driver, garage kept and I'm slowing restoring it & doing a bit more appearance wise to make it a bit more visually appealing. I've had many SHOs over the years so I know the engine well, and I'm not too bad when it comes to paint / body work and interiors. In my care I've refinished the wheels, did a good amount of underhood maintenance & cleaning, new headliner, refinished the roof rack rails, window tint, added a 73mm MAF & front strut tower bar, and I'm in the process of building custom first-generation SHO-style rocker trim (it's not a direct bolt-on) to use with the existing Sable LS door skirts.
Everything works on the car, right down to the R-12 A/C. When I did the headliner I also redyed most of the interior panels gray as they were a bit worn. The seats still need recovered or swapped with good gray SHO seats and the dash is pretty cracked up. I do have a good replacement dash to swap in, but I'll wait on that project until I need to remove the dash, because honestly, I'd rather remove the engine than the dash.
Anyway, that's more or less where I'm at. LOVE the wagon--always wanted a first-gen SHO swapped wagon and this one with the mods it has just drives amazingly well. Handles tight, pulls strong, now I just need to jazz up the exterior a bit and finish the restoration.
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Advice Needed re: Gen2 Tempo Power Seats
I'm at a loss, and the server for the Tempo/Topaz owners' club seems down permanently (either that or they forgot to renew their domain status)...but, finding parts for Tempos is harder than scrounging parts for Gen1 Tauruses.
Here's the situation: We recently took back our '93 Tempo 4cyl which our son had been driving since its predecessor - a '93 Tempo V6 - was totalled by a hit-and-run driver. It needs a few things taken care of. One thing I'd like to rectify, is the driver's power seat will raise or lower, and I can raise or lower the front of the seat. Doing the same for the rear of the seat doesn't work. Seems there are two motors in the seat frame. I'd really like to adjust for cushion tilt, but this problem precludes that for now.
Anyone know if Ford used the same seat motors in the Tempo as in the Taurus? Could this just be a connection that needs cleaning up?
Any advice gratefully accepted. Thanks ~
Here's the situation: We recently took back our '93 Tempo 4cyl which our son had been driving since its predecessor - a '93 Tempo V6 - was totalled by a hit-and-run driver. It needs a few things taken care of. One thing I'd like to rectify, is the driver's power seat will raise or lower, and I can raise or lower the front of the seat. Doing the same for the rear of the seat doesn't work. Seems there are two motors in the seat frame. I'd really like to adjust for cushion tilt, but this problem precludes that for now.
Anyone know if Ford used the same seat motors in the Tempo as in the Taurus? Could this just be a connection that needs cleaning up?
Any advice gratefully accepted. Thanks ~
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Hello From Florida
Have some questions for a 2006 taurus Se
Does anyone know where a Power steering pressure switch on a 2006 Taurus Se, 3.0L engine not flexfuel.
Can not find it for the life of me, car is jerking during acceleration and i think its the problem
Does anyone know where a Power steering pressure switch on a 2006 Taurus Se, 3.0L engine not flexfuel.
Can not find it for the life of me, car is jerking during acceleration and i think its the problem
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Gen I Sable wagon rear quarter cladding (pic included) and lightbar
Desperately looking for these items right now... the lightbar is long discontinued and can't even find one aftermarket. Mine is ok but a bit yellow. Would LOVE to find a NOS bar somewhere!
Perhaps a bit easier, I also need the rear Sable LS wagon 1/4 panel cladding, left and right side. See the attached pic.
Any help is appreciated! I've searched all boneyards near me to no avail, and searching car-part is pretty much worthless for these items. Especially the cladding. Thanks!
Perhaps a bit easier, I also need the rear Sable LS wagon 1/4 panel cladding, left and right side. See the attached pic.
Any help is appreciated! I've searched all boneyards near me to no avail, and searching car-part is pretty much worthless for these items. Especially the cladding. Thanks!
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Upgrading speakers
I have a 2000 Sable wagon with the base sound system. I recently discovered that I can upgrade to Mach (just plug and play ...)
I went to the JY and got the amplifier and tweeters and, oh boy, what a difference! Even without listening you can can tell: the base amplifier is like 2 lb while the Mach is at least 5 lbs.
The problem is that the stock speakers seem struggling past 1/3 volume. The curious thing is that both options have the same speakers: 4 Ohms 20W. Time for new/better speakers.
Any suggestions?
I went to the JY and got the amplifier and tweeters and, oh boy, what a difference! Even without listening you can can tell: the base amplifier is like 2 lb while the Mach is at least 5 lbs.
The problem is that the stock speakers seem struggling past 1/3 volume. The curious thing is that both options have the same speakers: 4 Ohms 20W. Time for new/better speakers.
Any suggestions?
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Absurd interview questions
Well I guess I'll crack the bottle on this section here with this.
In light of my wife coming back from an interview and telling me the absurd interview questions she was asked, I ask everyone here. What is the best, and worse interview questions that you have ever had asked to you? Don't state the company name but if you would like to state the field it was in that would probably add to the absurdity.
One of my all time favorite........ "Where do you see yourself in 5 years" ........ Employed, is always what I would like to tell them. :rolleyes2:
In light of my wife coming back from an interview and telling me the absurd interview questions she was asked, I ask everyone here. What is the best, and worse interview questions that you have ever had asked to you? Don't state the company name but if you would like to state the field it was in that would probably add to the absurdity.
One of my all time favorite........ "Where do you see yourself in 5 years" ........ Employed, is always what I would like to tell them. :rolleyes2:
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How to remove headlight lenses
Ok, I'm doing a projector refit on my 2000 Taurus, and the lenses are being a PITA to get off. I've heated them up twice and still can't pry them free. All I'm doing is chipping the plastic. Am I doing something wrong?
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Hello from Alabama via Michigan
Hello my name is Ken. I'm from Alabama via Michigan. Would like to thank you guys for this forum. This is a very informative website and I'm so glad its here. I currently own a 02 sable and 03 Taurus both have the 3.0 Vulcan. Again thanks for this forum.
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Engine Support Bar
Ok, so I am about to pull the transmission from my 2003 Ford Taurus. 3.0 DOHC 24V. I have found both places that the guide I am using says to use for the engine support bar, but the problem is, in the guide they are using a 3 legged bar, and I only have the one that goes across, it was the only one I could find to buy in town. I am sure a number of folks have done this with just a single bar engine support, and I was wondering, which places did you use for mounting points to hold the engine while you dropped the subframe and transmission?
I have done a fair amount of mechanical work, have swapped 5 engines and transmissions this year alone, but I have never worked on anything this new and had to have a support bar or a subframe drop, I have always gone out the top as that is usually pretty easy in many older vehicles.
I have done a fair amount of mechanical work, have swapped 5 engines and transmissions this year alone, but I have never worked on anything this new and had to have a support bar or a subframe drop, I have always gone out the top as that is usually pretty easy in many older vehicles.
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'97 Taurus wagon as tv
Wondering whether there's anything that can be done to my tran so that it can pull a 1400lb tent trailer. Had the orig trans rebuilt, incl a few "upgraded parts", last year. Everything else on the car seems plenty beefy to handle it.
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